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This website is about Brazilian jiu jitsu (BJJ). I'm a black belt who started in 2006, teaching and training at Artemis BJJ in Bristol, UK. All content ©Can Sönmez
Showing posts with label teaching back mount escapes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label teaching back mount escapes. Show all posts

22 June 2022

22/06/2022 - Teaching | Back | Panda defence & scoop escape

Teaching #Evening
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 22/06/2022

Before they get their upper body grips, immediately leans forwards. Protect your neck by keeping your hands close, palms facing outwards (snapping at any grips attempting to come in: IIRC, Priit uses the handy metaphor of piranhas). Keep your forearms tightly in your hip creases, elbows slightly past your hips. The further you can lean forward, the better.

If they attempt to step a leg over the top of your leg, underhook it, turn and go for the pass. If your defences havea gat and they do manage to get their hooks in, grab around their feet. With your arms inside their legs for extra leverage, pull up on their feet. That should make it really hard for them to do anything proactive.
This then leads to the scoop. As with any escape, you need to stay tight. Should you prefer a different hand position to the piranha, there are numerous schools of thought on just how to do that: clamping your hands to both sides of your neck (which I learned as the 'Shirley Temple' defence), crossing your hands over your neck, grabbing both your collars, and Saulo's method of just grabbing one collar, keeping the other hand free to block.

If you go for any of those options, you need to be careful that you don't reach too far with that free hand. If you do, then you may give them space to establish a firm grip or launch their attack. Keep the 'defensive zone' of the free arm small, with your elbow staying tight. Should they manage to get past your arms and being setting up a choke, you'll probably have to bail on that and simply grab their arm. The first priority when somebody takes your back is protecting your neck.

What Saulo calls the 'scoop' back escape starts with that hand positioning, one thumb in the opposite collar and the other hand defending. The same thing works from the panda position too (but be careful if you are pulling up on their feet, as their legs are in a vulnerable position when you move your hips forwards). For this escape to work, you need to have prevented (or cleared) any grips they have below your arms. That then enables you 'scoop' your upper body down and your hips forwards, as low as you can. Next, kick out one of your legs to clear their hook (you may also need to nudge it with your elbow), then drop your other elbow down past their other leg and turn.

That's a little counter-intuitive: keep in mind you are not turning towards the hook you kicked free. You also need to be careful here that they can't re-establish their second hook: block it with your elbow and knee if they try. Once you've turned, stay heavy on their leg and move up into side control.
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Teaching Notes: I should look more into that escape where the feet are grabbed and Priit spins around from there. Also, emphasising the elbows are on the inside of the legs when they get their hooks in against panda. Do you need both arms under the leg when they step a leg over, or is one enough? To turn you would have to remove one arm anyway, unless I'm forgetting something Priit taught.

27 March 2019

27/03/2019 - Teaching | Back | Bridging back escape

Teaching #848
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 27/03/2019

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The first rule of the back position is protect your neck. There are lots of ways of doing that, but my preference is the Saulo Ribeiro method. One hand is in your opposite collar, the other hand floats, ready to block their incoming grips. Don't reach too far with that arm or you'll leave space: keep it near your chest. Your elbows are inside their knees, ready to pop off their hooks if the opportunity presents itself.

Next, bring your knee up on their choking arm side (so, the arm that is reaching over your shoulder and trying to wrap your neck, rather than the arm coming under your armpit). Angle your knee inwards, to prevent them from rolling you back the other way: they will find it easy to choke you if they can roll you in the direction of their choking arm. In one quick motion, move your head forwards and simultaneously shove their head sideways (this is presuming they know what they are doing and have their head tight to yours for control). Look towards them, keeping your head and neck firm in order to stop them moving their head back into place.

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You can then continue, pushing off your leg, aiming to get your shoulders and spine to the mat. If you aren't able to get your head past theirs, still push off your leg. Put your head on the mat and then grind it underneath their head. This isn't pleasant for either of you, but it is generally effective: preferably you can get your head past theirs in the gentler method above. If they have moved you to the 'wrong' side, still get your head to the mat, but use that to bridge, then walk your feet back across.



When on the 'right' side (facing away from their choking arm), if you can, clamp your arm that is nearest the mat to your side, aiming to trap their arm. To really immobilise them, see if you can use that same arm to grab their opposite sleeve/wrist, meaning you're using one arm to control both of theirs. With your near arm, grab their trousers by their top leg (either by the knee or a bit lower). When you have the opportunity, switch to grip with the other hand.

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To deal with their hooking foot, twist your hips towards it to pop it off. If that doesn't work, reach your other foot over and push it off. There is also the option of pushing it off with your hand, but take care you don't expose your neck. Once the hook is off, immediately bring your same side foot over, heel tight to their shin. That should prevent them re-establishing their hook.

With your near arm, grab their trousers by their top leg (either by the knee or a bit lower). When you have the opportunity, switch to grip with the other hand. At this point, with the arm I have nearest their head, I like to either reach across their neck and grab the gi, or better, reach under their head, grip the far armpit then lock my shoulder into their head and shoulder.

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Either way, push off your free leg and turn to try and come on top. With your grip on the knee, stiff-arm so they can't lock their half-guard (if they do lock their half guard, this puts you in the opposite side half guard pass position, so proceed from there). Free your leg (pushing on their leg if you need to) and move into side control.
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Teaching Notes: I've taught the 'move out to side control' version a number of times now, so next time I need to show the Donal version where you end up in half guard instead (either top or bottom). The side control option works fine in principle and when drilling, but tough to get in sparring. Downside is that the half guard option might be more complex? Either way, test that out for next time.

People are still tending to slide off flat on the mat, rather than keeping some weight on their partner. Emphasise pushing off the legs more, walking round.

Also, I found that what Chris P said at the camp (Nov 2019, so I'm adding this in to remind myself, time machine ;D) and bridging back straight onto them to remove seat belt, useful. That makes the Saulo scoop much more viable, as well as leaning forward to fit in with the Priit method. So, it is worth doing a SEPARATE CLASS on the scoop and Priit lean forwards.

I used to think the scoop was low percentage. The reason for that is that it's rare for your opponent to have no grips on your upper body. However, soon after teaching this lesson, I found myself using the scoop quite a lot, as a follow up to turtle. If you immediately drop, turn and go for the scoop, off of a loose turtle it can work pretty well. Again, I've been combining that with Priit's material on the turtle, fun to play with so far.

People were getting confused by the twist of the hip to get the foot off. I either get the crossface, which is easiest to explain, or put my back onto them for control. Thinking about it, the clearest way to described that is probably face up side control. You're using the same kind of pressure from the same area of your body, except that your chest is pointing up rather than than down at the mat.

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25 March 2019

25/03/2019 - Teaching | Back | Turtle escape, post and tip

Teaching #847
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 25/03/2019



To escape the turtle position, your main options generally involve turning back to guard. If they leave enough space, you may be able to do a tight roll over your shoulder to swing your legs back into play. However, with a more experienced opponent, they will often be able to anticipate your roll and move around the side control. Alternatively, you can try turning the other way, again timing it for when they give you some space.

Another option for when they are on your side starts by stepping your near side leg behind them. Cut your other knee in front, just past their knee. Block their other leg by grabbing it, then turn underneath. If they are smaller than you or the same size, you may be able to roll them right over and get side control. If not, then guard recovery should be possible, at the very least half guard.



Should they make the mistake of reaching deep with their arm, you have a simple method to get on top. Trap their elbow by bringing your same side arm back and wrapping it tight. Look away, kick back your same side leg and roll through, getting your weight up onto them. In wrestling, this is apparently called a 'Peterson roll'.
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Teaching Notes: How important is it to emphasise you can use this as a guard recovery too, if they're big? Also possible to combine it with simply turning as they move around, or should that be in a separate lesson?

26 March 2018

26/03/2018 - Teaching | Back | Bridging Escape

Teaching #767
Artemis BJJ (MYGYM Bristol), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 26/03/2018

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The first rule of the back position is protect your neck. There are lots of ways of doing that, but my preference is the Saulo Ribeiro method. One hand is in your opposite collar, the other hand floats, ready to block their incoming grips. Don't reach too far with that arm or you'll leave space: keep it near your chest. Your elbows are inside their knees, ready to pop off their hooks if the opportunity presents itself.

Next, bring your knee up on their choking arm side (so, the arm that is reaching over your shoulder and trying to wrap your neck, rather than the arm coming under your armpit). Angle your knee inwards, to prevent them from rolling you back the other way: they will find it easy to choke you if they can roll you in the direction of their choking arm. In one quick motion, move your head forwards and simultaneously shove their head sideways (this is presuming they know what they are doing and have their head tight to yours for control). Look towards them, keeping your head and neck firm in order to stop them moving their head back into place.

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You can then continue, pushing off your leg, aiming to get your shoulders and spine to the mat. If you aren't able to get your head past theirs, still push off your leg. Put your head on the mat and then grind it underneath their head. This isn't pleasant for either of you, but it is generally effective: preferably you can get your head past theirs in the gentler method above. If they have moved you to the 'wrong' side, still get your head to the mat, but use that to bridge, then walk your feet back across.

When on the 'right' side (facing away from their choking arm), if you can, clamp your arm that is nearest the mat to your side, aiming to trap their arm. To really immobilise them, see if you can use that same arm to grab their opposite sleeve/wrist, meaning you're using one arm to control both of theirs. With your near arm, grab their trousers by their top leg (either by the knee or a bit lower). When you have the opportunity, switch to grip with the other hand.

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To deal with their hooking foot, twist your hips towards it to pop it off. If that doesn't work, reach your other foot over and push it off. There is also the option of pushing it off with your hand, but take care you don't expose your neck. Once the hook is off, immediately bring your same side foot over, heel tight to their shin. That should prevent them re-establishing their hook.

With your near arm, grab their trousers by their top leg (either by the knee or a bit lower). When you have the opportunity, switch to grip with the other hand. At this point, with the arm I have nearest their head, I like to either reach across their neck and grab the gi, or better, reach under their head, grip the far armpit then lock my shoulder into their head and shoulder.

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Either way, push off your free leg and turn to try and come on top. With your grip on the knee, stiff-arm so they can't lock their half-guard (if they do lock their half guard, this puts you in the opposite side half guard pass position, so proceed from there). Free your leg (pushing on their leg if you need to) and move into side control.
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Teaching Notes: Forgot about the don't cross your feet thing, I must mention that next time, along with a simple body triangle escape (as they're related). Split up stuff more too, was over 10 minutes of instruction, way too much. But useful to get the video, which is the main reason I spent that long teaching: it will be helpful in future. :D

Leaning forward seems quite useful, if super simple. That fits in with the Priit method. I included the Saulo scoop escape in there, which I haven't taught in a while as I didn't think it was high percentage. The reason for that is that it's rare for your opponent to have no grips on your upper body. However, soon after teaching this lesson, I found myself using the scoop quite a lot, as a follow up to turtle. If you immediately drop, turn and go for the scoop, off of a loose turtle it can work pretty well. Again, I've been combining that with Priit's material on the turtle, fun to play with so far.

People were getting confused by the twist of the hip to get the foot off. I either get the crossface, which is easiest to explain, or put my back onto them for control. Thinking about it, the clearest way to described that is probably face up side control. You're using the same kind of pressure from the same area of your body, except that your chest is pointing up rather than than down at the mat.

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28 April 2017

28/04/2017 - Teaching | Back | Arm Grab & Turn Escape

Teaching #657
Artemis BJJ (MYGYM Bristol), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 28/04/2017

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In the scenario for this escape, you're in trouble. They have their choking arm in place, so you need to act. Grab their arm and pull it down to give you time. You then want to switch to a grip on their sleeve or wrist, while your other arm reaches up as high on their arm as it can, then grab the gi material and pull down. The hard part is freeing your leg. Rather than the usual turn to get a leg free to turn away, this time you want to free the other leg to turn in. This will be the opposite leg to their choking arm side (often the 'top leg', as you'll generally be off to one side when doing this).

Kick that leg forwards and try to loop it back inside. Once that's free, maintain your grips on their arm and turn in towards them. You're aiming to turn enough that you can bring the arm that was on their wrist to wrap around for an underhook on their side (your other grip remains in place). If they are too tight, you can try what Brandon Mullins calls the 'slow motion seoi nage', gradually moving your grips up higher with each small increment of your turn.

Most of the time, you'll end up inside their guard. If you're able to trap their shin under your leg, you could potentially complete a pass instead. Note that this will not function so well if you try grabbing their other arm: it needs to be what Gustavo calls the 'overhook side' on Ace of Escapes. It's also important to keep hold of the arm, as your grip on that is what's stopping them crawling into position to re-establish their back control.
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Teaching Notes: This was another one from Ace of Escapes, where again I found it helpfully augmented something I already knew. In this case, it was the 'slow motion seoi nage' concept I like from the Kesting instructional with Brandon Mullins. The problem with that escape was that I wasn't sure how best to fit it into a class format, as it felt more like something you do when you're part of the way through another escape. Now, I have a technical structure I can put it inside.

Having that slow motion seoi nage part to suggest was useful, as a number of people found they couldn't find enough space to get their arm in place for the underhook. Next time, I may well just teach it with that slow motion seoi nage part. The main thing I need to work on is getting that leg free, as clearing it looks difficult. Is the seoi nage turn enough, even without managing to fully clear the hook? I'll keep experimenting.

26 April 2017

26/04/2017 - Teaching | Back | Arm Push and Loop Escape

Teaching #656
Artemis BJJ (MYGYM Bristol), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 26/04/2017

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This is a very simple one, though it's lower percentage. You've been rolled over to the choking arm side. First, grab their arm to create some space and hold off the choke. You're looking for an opportunity to pull their arm over your head. Once you can loop that arm over your head, extend your opposite arm, locking it out straight. Continue turning, bringing your same side elbow down to help turn. You're aiming to spin and end up in their guard.
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Teaching Notes: This is another one from MMA Leech's Ace of Escape instructional that I'm reviewing at the moment. The main reason I wanted to review that was to see if it could add some more back escapes to my repertoire, which it has done admirably. Even better, these aren't escapes that are brand new to me, but rather extra details and refinements of things I already know. This one is ok, but I'm not sure I'd want to put it into the regular rotation. It's difficult to get the arm over the head (hence why Gustavo refers to it as a passive escape).

A few people were adding an extra bit, not just pushing the arm, but bending it around the head kinda like a gift wrap. It isn't recommended to escape this way to the other side, but it is possible as long as you tuck your elbow really tight. The main problem - and it's a big problem - is if you try it on the underhook/non-choking side, there is a risk they can just swivel into an armbar. One of my students has been trying that option, and it's difficult for them to avoid the armbar as you only need to wrangle a small bit of space under the arm to get the position.

I'm not sure I'll teach this again, as it's tough to get, but I'll keep playing with it. I have seen this kind of escape pop up elsewhere: if there was a more reliable way of getting the arm over the head, it would make this far higher percentage.

24 April 2017

24/04/2017 - Teaching | Back | Bridging Back Escape (To Standard Half Guard)

Teaching #654
Artemis BJJ (MYGYM Bristol), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 24/04/2017

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The first rule of the back position is protect your neck. There are lots of ways of doing that, but my preference is the Saulo Ribeiro method. One hand is in your opposite collar, the other hand floats, ready to block their incoming grips. Don't reach too far with that arm or you'll leave space: keep it near your chest. Your elbows are inside their knees, ready to pop off their hooks if the opportunity presents itself.

Next, bring your knee up on their choking arm side (so, the arm that is reaching over your shoulder and trying to wrap your neck, rather than the arm coming under your armpit). Angle your knee inwards, to prevent them from rolling you back the other way: they will find it easy to choke you if they can roll you in the direction of their choking arm. In one quick motion, move your head forwards and simultaneously shove their head sideways (this is presuming they know what they are doing and have their head tight to yours for control). Look towards them, keeping your head and neck firm in order to stop them moving their head back into place.

You can then continue, pushing off your leg, aiming to get your shoulders and spine to the mat. If you aren't able to get your head past theirs, still push off your leg. Put your head on the mat and then grind it underneath their head. This isn't pleasant for either of you, but it is generally effective: preferably you can get your head past theirs in the gentler method above. If they have moved you to the 'wrong' side, still get your head to the mat, but use that to bridge, then walk your feet back across.

When on the 'right' side (facing away from their choking arm), if you can, clamp your arm that is nearest the mat to your side, aiming to trap their arm. To really immobilise them, see if you can use that same arm to grab their opposite sleeve/wrist, meaning you're using one arm to control both of theirs. With your near arm, grab their trousers by their top leg (either by the knee or a bit lower). When you have the opportunity, switch to grip with the other hand. To deal with their hooking foot, twist your hips towards it to pop it off. If that doesn't work, reach your other foot over and push it off. There is also the option of pushing it off with your hand, but take care you don't expose your neck. Once the hook is off, immediately bring your same side foot over, heel tight to their shin. That should prevent them re-establishing their hook.

There are several options at this point. A simple one is to move into standard half guard, using their inclination to get to the mount against them. If you can, hook their leg with your leg, on the side you're moving away from. As they try to bring that leg over for mount, simply push it with your hands and turn on your side, moving into half guard. Make sure you get your legs above their knee, as otherwise you're essentially under half mount rather than in a half guard. If they are not trying to go to mount, you probably won't have the position for this transition, so in that situation I'd likely aim for one of the other variations, like going to side control.
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Teaching Notes: I included a quick half guard drill, which refreshed the memory of those who have done it before, but I'm not sure it was enough to introduce it to people completely new to half guard. Hopefully it still helped: it looked as though they all had a handle on it by the end of the class. In terms of the technique, I also added in the switch from the 'wrong' side, as the move into half guard is so simple that I think it leaves enough room in the lesson. Emphasise things like hooking the leg, pushing the knee through far enough. A key thing to note is that it's intended for when your partner is trying to go to mount.

21 April 2017

21/04/2017 - Teaching | Back | Bridging Back Escape (To Deep Half Guard)

Teaching #653
Artemis BJJ (MYGYM Bristol), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 21/04/2017



The first rule of the back position is protect your neck. There are lots of ways of doing that, but my preference is the Saulo Ribeiro method. One hand is in your opposite collar, the other hand floats, ready to block their incoming grips. Don't reach too far with that arm or you'll leave space: keep it near your chest. Your elbows are inside their knees, ready to pop off their hooks if the opportunity presents itself.

Next, bring your knee up on their choking arm side (so, the arm that is reaching over your shoulder and trying to wrap your neck, rather than the arm coming under your armpit). Angle your knee inwards, to prevent them from rolling you back the other way: they will find it easy to choke you if they can roll you in the direction of their choking arm. In one quick motion, move your head forwards and simultaneously shove their head sideways (this is presuming they know what they are doing and have their head tight to yours for control). Look towards them, keeping your head and neck firm in order to stop them moving their head back into place.

Push off your leg and bridge back, aiming to get your shoulders and spine to the mat. If you aren't able to get your head past theirs, still push off your leg. Put your head on the mat and then grind it underneath their head. This isn't pleasant for either of you, but it is generally effective: preferably you can get your head past theirs in the gentler method above. If you can, clamp your arm that is nearest the mat to your side, aiming to trap their arm. To really immobilise them, see if you can use that same arm to grab their opposite sleeve/wrist, meaning you're using one arm to control both of theirs.

With your near arm, grab their trousers by their top leg (either by the knee or a bit lower). When you have the opportunity, switch to grip with the other hand. To deal with their hooking foot, twist your hips towards it to pop it off. If that doesn't work, reach your other foot over and push it off. There is also the option of pushing it off with your hand, but take care you don't expose your neck. Once the hook is off, immediately bring your same side foot over, heel tight to their shin. That should prevent them re-establishing their hook.

There are several options at this point. Tonight, I went with one I don't use all that often myself, but it's useful to have in your toolbox. They will probably try to bring their leg over for mount. As they do, scoot down and shoot your arm underneath their leg, all the way to your shoulder. At the same time, wrap one leg over the top of their leg, either locking it with your other leg, or hooking your other leg under. That puts you in deep half. From here, you can work your sweeps: the simplest is to spin through to the top, staying tight.
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Teaching Notes: I added the drill for familiarising deep half, using the entry from technical mount. I emphasised getting the shoulder under the thigh, as before. I avoided going into too much detail on the sweep, though it is worth noting you can pop out the back (as people often end up leaning forwards loads when they're on top of deep half, especially if they haven't been in that position much before). Also, not forgetting about defending the neck. On hooking the leg, sometimes it felt like you didn't need to and could pop straight under, but I think that depends on how much they reach with their leg when trying for mount.

This isn't a variation I'd want to teach every time, especially as deep half is more complex, but it seemed to work well, so definitely one I'll add to my stores of lessons. :)