Teaching #921
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 04/12/2019
Faria's single leg sweeps from half guard have some similarities to the Lucas Leite series I taught a while ago. The main difference is that wrapped leg with the lapel, which broadens your options. There's the basic 'grab their far knee and drive', but you can also add in some more wrestling style takedowns. Leading with your head and drive into the hip, this can be particularly useful if they step up a leg and attempt to regain their base.
Similarly, if they try to swivel around to the front, you can tuck your elbow by their knee, turn and drive. Keep hold of that lapel wrap on their leg, that's the key to most of these techniques.
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Teaching Notes: Still getting the hang of these, but the first three feel solid. However, basic point: how does Faria sufficiently control the bottom leg without them swivelling it out? Also something Sam G is great at, I should pick his brain some more. I think it's a downwards hook with the bottom leg, but need to explore that more.
Showing posts with label teaching # Half Guard: Dogfight. Show all posts
Showing posts with label teaching # Half Guard: Dogfight. Show all posts
17 July 2019
17/07/2019 - Teaching | Dogfight | Drive down and roll under sweep
Teaching #889
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 17/07/2019
Although this is a position I'm teaching as part of half guard, you could potentially end up here from various routes. For example, it might be that you are defending a knee cut pass and swivel up, or perhaps even somehow end up there when attacking the turtle. Most of the time, it crops up in half guard, either from a standard half guard, knee shield or quarter guard.
However you arrive at the dogfight (side by side turtle with an underhook, plus you have their leg hooked), there are several solid options to arrive at a better position. If they haven't got a whizzer (overhooked your underhook), you can simply throw your elbow forward to take their back. If they do have a whizzer but it's loose, you can relax your arm and whip it free (known as a 'limp arm'). Most of the time, the whizzer will be too solid for that, particularly with the added friction of a gi.
The simplest option against a strong whizzer is to drive them down to the mat. Grab their far knee and push into them, collapsing their base. From there, move behind them. I like Kenny Polman's method where you put your shin behind their leg (below the knee) and do a big step forward. You can also grip the side of their knee and put your weight through it to pin that in place, or grab behind with your leg.
Should they insist on holding onto the whizzer at this point, it's not going to do them any good. You can simply wait it out or apply a little pressure to pop the arm off (they won't be comfortable in that position if they insist on holding the whizzer underneath side control).
If you've gone for the drive down, but they resist, then the follow up is to roll underneath. Maintain your hook on the leg, as that will mean you can engage your legs, rather than relying on your core to roll them over the top. You're aiming to fire your head and shoulder between their legs, Combined with the momentum of their drive towards you, that should send them rolling to the mat. Come on top, then proceed to side control as before.
Sometimes they will remove their whizzer to post, in order to prevent being rolled. The reason you went for the drive down and roll under in the first place was because the whizzer was blocking your route to the back. Therefore whenever they remove it, the back is open once again. That means you can just return to the back take when they try to post, shoving the arm forwards if you need to.
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Teaching Notes: A few people were curious about what happens when they still have the whizzer: I don't think it does any good, so I'd say just wait it out or apply some pressure to pop it off. Still, worth mentioning.
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 17/07/2019
Although this is a position I'm teaching as part of half guard, you could potentially end up here from various routes. For example, it might be that you are defending a knee cut pass and swivel up, or perhaps even somehow end up there when attacking the turtle. Most of the time, it crops up in half guard, either from a standard half guard, knee shield or quarter guard.
However you arrive at the dogfight (side by side turtle with an underhook, plus you have their leg hooked), there are several solid options to arrive at a better position. If they haven't got a whizzer (overhooked your underhook), you can simply throw your elbow forward to take their back. If they do have a whizzer but it's loose, you can relax your arm and whip it free (known as a 'limp arm'). Most of the time, the whizzer will be too solid for that, particularly with the added friction of a gi.
The simplest option against a strong whizzer is to drive them down to the mat. Grab their far knee and push into them, collapsing their base. From there, move behind them. I like Kenny Polman's method where you put your shin behind their leg (below the knee) and do a big step forward. You can also grip the side of their knee and put your weight through it to pin that in place, or grab behind with your leg.
Should they insist on holding onto the whizzer at this point, it's not going to do them any good. You can simply wait it out or apply a little pressure to pop the arm off (they won't be comfortable in that position if they insist on holding the whizzer underneath side control).
If you've gone for the drive down, but they resist, then the follow up is to roll underneath. Maintain your hook on the leg, as that will mean you can engage your legs, rather than relying on your core to roll them over the top. You're aiming to fire your head and shoulder between their legs, Combined with the momentum of their drive towards you, that should send them rolling to the mat. Come on top, then proceed to side control as before.
Sometimes they will remove their whizzer to post, in order to prevent being rolled. The reason you went for the drive down and roll under in the first place was because the whizzer was blocking your route to the back. Therefore whenever they remove it, the back is open once again. That means you can just return to the back take when they try to post, shoving the arm forwards if you need to.
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Teaching Notes: A few people were curious about what happens when they still have the whizzer: I don't think it does any good, so I'd say just wait it out or apply some pressure to pop it off. Still, worth mentioning.
15 July 2019
15/07/2019 - Teaching | Quarter Guard | Dogfight to the back
Teaching #888
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 15/07/2019
As they either start to free themselves from your half guard, or possibly they are just going for a knee cut and are most of the way through, hook the bottom of their leg. You can get this tighter by bringing your top leg under theirs. In other words, your outside leg goes over, then you hook underneath their leg, your knee to the ground. If you can, try for a 'mini lockdown' by also hooking your other leg under their foot, but this isn't always viable (depends on your leg length relative to theirs).
You are now in what's called quarter guard, as you've basically got half of half guard (the bottom part of their leg, as opposed to above the knee, which is much more secure). Heather Raftery taught an excellent lesson on this at the 2018 Heidelcamp (you'll see me pop up behind her during the teaching ;D), which I've been drawing on for when I teach quarter guard.
You must get the underhook, or you will get passed. Swivel to your knees, into the dogfight position (essentially, side by side turtle with a leg hooked). The simple option is to shuck their arm forward, popping out to attack their turtle. To fully take their back, you can move your knee forward, chop it into their knee and roll.
You've got a few other options too, which I'll to cover in future classes: e.g., driving them down by grabbing the knee, or you can also roll under (like you do against a whizzer). If their whizzer is weak, you may be able to 'limp arm' it free: in other words, fully relax your arm and then whip it free. With a proper whizzer, particularly in the gi, the friction will make that difficult.
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Teaching Notes: The main part people got confused on was leg position. I'll keep emphasising that, go through it a few more times. Hooking over and under, ideally mini lockdown if leg length allows. Also, it might be worth talking a moment about what a whizzer is, as the uke doesn't always immediately recognise it when I say.
Somebody on instagram was also asking about headlocks when you're coming up to the dogfight from quarter guard, so that might be worth considering. Hasn't cropped up in sparring yet, but I'll keep an eye out. I guess you'd want to stay on your side, posting solidly with an elbow/hand, plus making sure your head is in tight to their body.
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 15/07/2019
As they either start to free themselves from your half guard, or possibly they are just going for a knee cut and are most of the way through, hook the bottom of their leg. You can get this tighter by bringing your top leg under theirs. In other words, your outside leg goes over, then you hook underneath their leg, your knee to the ground. If you can, try for a 'mini lockdown' by also hooking your other leg under their foot, but this isn't always viable (depends on your leg length relative to theirs).
You are now in what's called quarter guard, as you've basically got half of half guard (the bottom part of their leg, as opposed to above the knee, which is much more secure). Heather Raftery taught an excellent lesson on this at the 2018 Heidelcamp (you'll see me pop up behind her during the teaching ;D), which I've been drawing on for when I teach quarter guard.
You must get the underhook, or you will get passed. Swivel to your knees, into the dogfight position (essentially, side by side turtle with a leg hooked). The simple option is to shuck their arm forward, popping out to attack their turtle. To fully take their back, you can move your knee forward, chop it into their knee and roll.
You've got a few other options too, which I'll to cover in future classes: e.g., driving them down by grabbing the knee, or you can also roll under (like you do against a whizzer). If their whizzer is weak, you may be able to 'limp arm' it free: in other words, fully relax your arm and then whip it free. With a proper whizzer, particularly in the gi, the friction will make that difficult.
___________________
Teaching Notes: The main part people got confused on was leg position. I'll keep emphasising that, go through it a few more times. Hooking over and under, ideally mini lockdown if leg length allows. Also, it might be worth talking a moment about what a whizzer is, as the uke doesn't always immediately recognise it when I say.
Somebody on instagram was also asking about headlocks when you're coming up to the dogfight from quarter guard, so that might be worth considering. Hasn't cropped up in sparring yet, but I'll keep an eye out. I guess you'd want to stay on your side, posting solidly with an elbow/hand, plus making sure your head is in tight to their body.
10 July 2019
10/07/2019 - Teaching | Half Guard | Knee shield to dogfight
Teaching #886
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 10/07/2019
The knee shield is a very useful tool for managing distance. From half guard, adjust so you can put your top knee right onto their hip bone. This is enough to prevent them driving forward, plus importantly it also means that even if (like me) you're short, you can still keep your ankles crossed. Due to the distance, you can simply block their wrist to prevent the cross face, rather than keeping your arms in closer: they can't crush in, so you have much more space than usual.
That position is good for maintaining the half guard, but to progress, you will generally want to bring your knee shield up high. Put your knee up by their chest, buttressed by your arm: like I mentioned already, be aware that it will be hard or even impossible to cross your ankles, so there is that opening in your legs, be aware of it. In terms of your arm placement, there are two main options. If you put your elbow inside your knee, that makes it tough for them to crush your knee down to start their pass. Alternatively, you could put your elbow on the outside of the knee. That means you can reach across with your hand to their other shoulder, creating a frame comparable to the solid defensive frame from under side control.
For the back take, it's probably easiest to put your elbow on the inside, but that's just my personal preference. Open up your knee shield slightly, to create a gap by their armpit. Into that gap, reach your hand through too. As you do, kick forwards. The momentum of the kick - combined with the sudden departure of resistance to their own weight and forward pressure - should enable you to 'dive' through that gap for the underhook, swivelling through to take the back.
This does depend on how savvy they are. If they don't put in any kind of whizzer (aka, overhooking your underhooking arm), then your route to the back is simple. Just spin through and go for the back take. For a more secure route, adjust your leg position first. You're going to bring your outside leg over, hooking their leg. Try to slide your leg underneath, for a stronger grip. You can then swivel to your knees, putting you in the dogfight position. From there, you can still take the back as before, if they don't whizzer, but you're prepared if they do whizzer.
Once you're in the dogfight, you open up a broader sequence. That starts with a back take, against no whizzer. Against a weak whizzer, you can 'limp arm', relaxing your arm and whipping it free. Versus a decent whizzer, you can try and drive forwards to knock them down, then if they resist that, you can roll underneath. I'll be going through those options in future lessons.
Xande has some nice tweaks from BJJ Library on the standard knee-in-hip version, where your knee is much lower. He comes up on his elbow (reminiscent of Ryan Hall's sitting guard approach, stiff arming into their collar bone too), then moves into a 'bodylock', scooting in after he gets the underhook and locks both his hands around their back. From there he can use that bodylock to help adjust round to the back.
To finish off this post, here's a summary video of the knee shield into dogfight:
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Teaching Notes: Make sure to come up on the elbow. After you get the underhook, make sure you get in close, so ear to their chest. Keep the knee shield leg tight to them.
Artemis BJJ (Easton Road), Can Sönmez, Bristol, UK - 10/07/2019
The knee shield is a very useful tool for managing distance. From half guard, adjust so you can put your top knee right onto their hip bone. This is enough to prevent them driving forward, plus importantly it also means that even if (like me) you're short, you can still keep your ankles crossed. Due to the distance, you can simply block their wrist to prevent the cross face, rather than keeping your arms in closer: they can't crush in, so you have much more space than usual.
That position is good for maintaining the half guard, but to progress, you will generally want to bring your knee shield up high. Put your knee up by their chest, buttressed by your arm: like I mentioned already, be aware that it will be hard or even impossible to cross your ankles, so there is that opening in your legs, be aware of it. In terms of your arm placement, there are two main options. If you put your elbow inside your knee, that makes it tough for them to crush your knee down to start their pass. Alternatively, you could put your elbow on the outside of the knee. That means you can reach across with your hand to their other shoulder, creating a frame comparable to the solid defensive frame from under side control.
For the back take, it's probably easiest to put your elbow on the inside, but that's just my personal preference. Open up your knee shield slightly, to create a gap by their armpit. Into that gap, reach your hand through too. As you do, kick forwards. The momentum of the kick - combined with the sudden departure of resistance to their own weight and forward pressure - should enable you to 'dive' through that gap for the underhook, swivelling through to take the back.
This does depend on how savvy they are. If they don't put in any kind of whizzer (aka, overhooking your underhooking arm), then your route to the back is simple. Just spin through and go for the back take. For a more secure route, adjust your leg position first. You're going to bring your outside leg over, hooking their leg. Try to slide your leg underneath, for a stronger grip. You can then swivel to your knees, putting you in the dogfight position. From there, you can still take the back as before, if they don't whizzer, but you're prepared if they do whizzer.
Once you're in the dogfight, you open up a broader sequence. That starts with a back take, against no whizzer. Against a weak whizzer, you can 'limp arm', relaxing your arm and whipping it free. Versus a decent whizzer, you can try and drive forwards to knock them down, then if they resist that, you can roll underneath. I'll be going through those options in future lessons.
Xande has some nice tweaks from BJJ Library on the standard knee-in-hip version, where your knee is much lower. He comes up on his elbow (reminiscent of Ryan Hall's sitting guard approach, stiff arming into their collar bone too), then moves into a 'bodylock', scooting in after he gets the underhook and locks both his hands around their back. From there he can use that bodylock to help adjust round to the back.
To finish off this post, here's a summary video of the knee shield into dogfight:
___________________
Teaching Notes: Make sure to come up on the elbow. After you get the underhook, make sure you get in close, so ear to their chest. Keep the knee shield leg tight to them.
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